Profanating gastro-normativity: exploring the nonhuman materiality of making and tasting wine in the context of the Natural Wine Movement

11:30, Saturday 8 May 2021 (30 minutes)

Andrea Pavoni, ISCTE University Institute of Lisbon, Portugal

This paper explores the making and tasting of wine through the anonymous processes of nonhuman consumption that participate in the production of its relational ontology (the terroir) and shape its visceral encounter with the human tongue (taste). First, I define a notion of consumption that is neither reduced to the human, the subjective or the phenomenological, nor de-materialised into socio-cultural or politico-economical anthropic schemes. Second, I explore wine’s terroir as a prism through which challenging the two main ideologies that frame the contemporary wine world: a normative territoriality premised on spatio-legal frameworks, and a consumer-oriented marketing approach. Third, I introduce the Natural Wine Movement, in whose constellation of thinking, making and tasting , I find the lineament of a strategic materialism that aims to make visible and is open towards the agency and senses of nonhuman matter, and it does so by addressing simultaneously wine's terroir and taste, by means of profanating their taken for granted normativity. I conclude suggesting that this strategy may hold promising insights for the task of implementing sensorial food politics in the age of agro-industrial capitalism.

ISCTE University Institute of Lisbon